Lambrusco

I’ll defend Lambrusco in any setting. This isn’t just a wine; it’s one of Italy’s oldest continuously produced styles, with roots stretching back over two millennia. And yet, for many, its name still carries baggage from the 1970s: overly sweet, mass-produced and largely forgettable . . . sometimes even regrettable.

That reputation didn’t come from nowhere. After World War II, Lambrusco became a global export success – particularly in the United States – where large-scale producers flooded the market with inexpensive, sugary versions. They were popular, but they obscured the identity of the wine.

Real Lambrusco tells a very different story.

Its origins trace back to the Etruscans, cultivating wild vines in what is now Emilia-Romagna. Even its name – from the Latin labrusca, meaning ‘wild vine’ – speaks to something untamed and deeply rooted in place. Early versions were likely sparkling by accident, as fermentation restarted in the bottle with the warmth of spring.

Through the Middle Ages and into the Renaissance, Lambrusco became a staple of daily life around Modena and Reggio Emilia: lively, slightly fizzy, rustic and always meant to be enjoyed young.

That spirit hasn’t disappeared; it’s just been rediscovered. In recent years, it has quietly reclaimed its place at the table – dry, bright and full of character.

One of the few fully family-owned estates in the region, Cantina Messori spans 26 hectares across Reggio Emilia and Modena. Its turning point came when Elena Messori took over at just 25, shifting the focus from bulk production to estate-grown, single-vineyard wines.

Her approach is clear. Quality over quantity, authenticity over intervention. With a philosophy rooted in sustainability and careful vineyard management, her wines feel both grounded in tradition and alive with energy.

They are, in many ways, exactly what Lambrusco has always been: honest, vibrant, and unapologetically itself.

Meet the Maker

Elena Messori, Winemaker at Cantina Messori 

Can you tell us about your background and your family’s history?

My name is Elena Messori, I am almost 31 years old, and I produce wine. My family’s story began more than 100 years ago. In 1916 my great-great-grandfather, Abbondio, bought a property in Correggio, in the heart of Emilia-Romagna. That moment marked the beginning of an agricultural tradition that has involved five generations of the Messori family.

What led you to take over the family winery?

On 31st May 2019, my father discovered he was suffering from an incurable illness. The day before, I had taken my final university exam, and I was about to renew my contract at a company where I worked in Milan. I decided to leave everything and return home to dedicate myself to our family winery. Despite everything, I still managed to graduate in October 2019.

Why did you make that decision?

There were two main reasons. The first was my passion for history and tradition. Producing Lambrusco, Ancellotta, and Pignoletto means carrying forward a centuries-old Emilian tradition.

The second reason is that today it’s almost impossible to start an agricultural business from scratch. Every time a farm closes, something is lost forever. I felt fortunate to have this opportunity and didn’t want my family’s history to disappear.

When did your own winemaking journey begin?

Our journey truly began in 2024, when we produced our first wines under our own label using grapes from our vineyards. That year, we launched three wines: Ribelle, Gasato, and Spettinato. In 2025, we expanded the range by adding Amabile.

Before that, we had always delivered our grapes to local cooperative wineries, but we felt a strong desire to take a different path.

What is your philosophy when it comes to winemaking?

Our goal is to give proper dignity to grape varieties like Lambrusco Salamino, Grasparossa, and Pignoletto, which we believe have enormous potential.

We focus on high-quality grapes grown with great care and respect for the environment, harvested at the optimal moment. When the grapes are healthy and harvested at the perfect time, the wine requires minimal intervention in the cellar and can naturally express its true character and the authenticity of the land.

Can you tell us about your production area?

Our area is well known for tourism, art and culture, but above all for its strong food and wine tradition. The local cuisine is rich and flavourful, and Lambrusco pairs perfectly thanks to its freshness and lively character.

There is a high density of vineyards in the area, although not all grape varieties are suitable for single-variety winemaking. For example, Ancellotta is often used in blends to add colour and structure, while Pignoletto and Grasparossa can also be vinified on their own, producing wines with distinct personalities.